‘Every Chef Must Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Dining Destinations.

When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.

Jennifer Cox
Jennifer Cox

Elena Marchetti is a music journalist and curator with a passion for uncovering indie gems and emerging artists.